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Discover Purvanchal
The archive

The culture of Purvanchal, in six threads

Festivals and traditions, art and textiles, cuisine and music — the pillars of a layered, living cultural life.

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A Morning at the Ghats
Traditions6 min read

A Morning at the Ghats

A slow walk from Assi to Dashashwamedh at first light, with the boatmen, bathers, yoga teachers, and sweepers who make a Varanasi morning.

Anjali Rai·
Kajri Season
Music6 min read

Kajri Season

Kajri is a song for the monsoon, and the monsoon is a song for women whose husbands have gone away. An essay on one of the great seasonal forms of Bhojpuri music.

Editorial Team·
Sarnath: The First Turning
Traditions6 min read

Sarnath: The First Turning

The Dhamek Stupa, Ashokan remains, and the modern-day monasteries of Sarnath — a visitor's guide that takes the site on its own terms.

Editorial Team·
Flavours of Purvanchal
Cuisine7 min read

Flavours of Purvanchal

Litti-chokha, thekua, kachori-sabzi, malaiyo — a walk through the kitchens and street carts of Purvanchal, dish by dish.

Kavita Singh·
Bhojpuri Music: Roots and Rhythms
Music8 min read

Bhojpuri Music: Roots and Rhythms

A primer on the song-forms of Purvanchal — Kajri, Birha, Sohar, Nirgun, Chaita — where they are sung, who sings them, and what they are really about.

Editorial Team·