
A Morning at the Ghats
A slow walk from Assi to Dashashwamedh at first light, with the boatmen, bathers, yoga teachers, and sweepers who make a Varanasi morning.
Beyond the headline festivals, Purvanchal holds thousands of daily customs — the small prayers, the greetings, the cooking orders, the songs that mark a wedding or a harvest. This pillar is where those quieter traditions are recorded.

A slow walk from Assi to Dashashwamedh at first light, with the boatmen, bathers, yoga teachers, and sweepers who make a Varanasi morning.
From Assi to Dashashwamedh at first light. A slow walk, a boat, and the rhythm of a city that starts its day in the river.
Read the story
A slow walk from Assi to Dashashwamedh at first light, with the boatmen, bathers, yoga teachers, and sweepers who make a Varanasi morning.

The Dhamek Stupa, Ashokan remains, and the modern-day monasteries of Sarnath — a visitor's guide that takes the site on its own terms.

Atala, Jama, and Lal Darwaza — the three great Sharqi mosques of Jaunpur, and a short history of the Sultanate that produced them.