Traditions6 min read
A Morning at the Ghats
A slow walk from Assi to Dashashwamedh at first light, with the boatmen, bathers, yoga teachers, and sweepers who make a Varanasi morning.
Anjali Rai·
Contributor
Anjali Rai
Based in Varanasi, Anjali writes on ritual, riverine life, and the changing public spaces of the old city. Her work has appeared in cultural journals across India.
Anjali Rai
Contributing writer
Varanasi
Festivals7 min read
Dev Deepawali on the Ghats
A night-long walk along the Ganga on Kartik Poornima, as lamps, rituals, and crowds transform the stone steps into a shared public stage.
Anjali Rai·
Festivals8 min read
Chhath at the Waterline
Chhath draws whole streets to the water at sunrise and sunset. A report from two neighbourhoods — one in Varanasi, one in Ballia — and the women who keep the vow.
Anjali Rai·